Dipladenia or Mandevilla sanderii. You may call it by either name.

is a picture of the new Crimson Parasol Dipladenia[Mandevillea]. It is really redder than this. Doesn't take an easy photo.

Special information for all you readers who live where it is cold and are trying to overwinter your Mandevillas inside. since we don't get very cold here this is my best advice without ever having done it. Go to the bottom of this page to read this. I get a number of emails on this subject so I will try to give you the best advice that I can.

Say mandevilla to most gardeners and they will correctly think of the large pink trumpet shaped flowers on a vine with big green leaves. That is Mandevilla 'Alice du Pont' and it is an exceptionally beautiful vine. There is a great new double flowered Mandevilla called Tango Twist. You will find some new cultivars out of that same variety that are white or even almost red. All of this species are heavy viners and tend to get bare and woody at the base. In temperate climates they will be semi-dormant in the winter and then start to grow rapidly once warm weather appears. Important note. Do not plant your Mandevillas in a place where the winter rain can pour down on them or in poor drainage areas. They can't stand cold wet winter feet. Believe me, they will punish you by dying after the 2nd winter.
2nd Hint. Do not cut your mandevilla back in the spring before it starts to grow. Let he plant tell you when it is spring.

This is the white Faire Lady dipladenia. Look at the leathery leaves on this plant. That is one of the main easily seen differences. Mandevillea amablis [Alice du Pont] has larger non shiny leaves and bigger flowers.

Dipladenia or mandevilla sanderii however is a very different looking and growing plant. Botanically they are all Mandevillea or mandevillas if you prefer to spell it this way. Traditionally this plant has been called Dipladenia. Dipladenia have smaller leathery leaves and have very little climbing habit. Usually they are grown as a container plant or a semi-hanging basket. The original Dipladenia were a very pale pink flower and it was discovered in the highlands above Rio de Janeiro. History indicates that perhaps only one plant was found and it is not found growing in nature down there now. Probably all condo's!!

Dipladenias have come a long way from the original pale pink. We now have Red Riding Hood in a cherry pink/red, Scarlet Pimpernel with a brighter red vibrant color and the white Faire Lady.

The latest addition to the Dipladenia line up comes to us from the Japanese Suntory company. It is Mandevilla sun Parasol Crimson.

A super new even redder red. This variety is more of a climber and will fill a short trellis in a hurry. Whether you call it mandevilla or Dipladenia isn't important. What is important is that this plant is one of the most satisfactory plants to grow in a pot that ever came along.

They all need at least a full half day to all day sun. They will grow better in a container, even if you bury the pot in the ground. I'm not sure why this is so since most plants perform better in the ground. There is something about the winter cold that here in Southern California does not make them happy when they have their roots in the ground. Perhaps that same sensitivity to cold wet feet that Alice du Pont has.

Grown in a container they will bloom all year if you feed them all year, give them good sun and protect from frost.

You can trim back in spring or summer. Dipladenias will take the beach front happily and will also go inland in the warm weather and not complain.

Over-wintering in the house.
In England many years ago after dipladenias had first been discovered and were being grown in Victorian gardens they overwintered them this way. They would re-pot the plants into smaller pots if that were possible. Don't try that, you'll probably kill it. They would then grow the plants as dry as possible in the most sun that they could find.

That is what you are going to try to do. Find a window that gets the most sun. Place your plant there. Add more light by using a special fluorescent tube called a grow light or at least use your regular household lights. A shop light suspended above the plant is good.

Just like the English...keep your plants on the dry side. Not no water, just very low water. It makes sense if you think it through. the light indoors is much less that even a cloudy day outside. A plant in low light slows down and uses very little water and fertilizer.
Even at best you will get those skinny long tendrils of growth. Cut them off just above some solid normal growth. I would not feed at all during its indoor stay. Leave the grow light on for an extra 4 hours per night. Spray off with water when the aphids attack, You may get some dieback of young growth. All you can do is spray with a fungicide and hope for the best.
When the warmer spring days come along put your plants outdoors for a sun bath during he bright times of the day. Be sure to bring it in. After a winter indoors that plant is just like you going to the beach for the first time in the summer. Fish belly white and just as tender. Once the weather is good and warm you only have to worry about the Aphids. and there will be aphids...trust me.

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